8 Expert Tips: Stay Fresh Through the Holidays!

The holidays are a time to be joyful and celebrate. They are also a time when we find ourselves overindulging in food and beverages while burning the candle at both ends hopping from party to party in the midst of rushing to finish deadline after deadline prior to holiday travel. Sleep becomes a luxury while looking fresh faced is a necessity.

A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of meeting prestigious skin care and lifestyle expert Lydia Sarfati, founder of Repêchage Skin Care. She’s truly a gem in the industry and a wonderful source of skinspiration for me– and for millions. Here, I share with you Lydia’s tips on how to successfully manage the holiday hustle while looking exceptionally fresh, along with the best Repêchage products to do the trick every step of the way.

1. If you need to get your day off to a detoxifying start after a big night out, jog or walk at least 30 minutes – The movement will give you energy and it will set your body in motion for detoxification. A little sweat is just what your body needs if you had a late night or over indulged on the holiday punch. When you are done, do some light stretching and drink at least 24 ounces of water.

2. Take a warm bath at 105 degrees for 30 minutes – The water should not be too hot. In fact as the water gets cooler the longer you soak this will allow for some lymphatic drainage, which will remove any superficial bloating. Lydia recommends adding a Repêchage Vita Cura Seaweed bath sachet to the water which will add to the relaxation, skin softening and detoxification.

3. While in the tub apply a relaxing facial mask or an exfoliating treatment. Lydia recommends applying Honey and Almond Scrub to the face and letting it sit for 10 minutes before gently massaging the face in circular motions and rinsing off with water. If you have less time use the Hydra Refine One Minute Clarifying Mask which works wonders and tightens pores.

a. If you don’t have a fresh cucumber handy to slice for use on the eyes, Lydia recommends applying cold Eye Rescue Pads to the eyes while the mask sets. These will allow you to regain the look of having achieved a well rested 8 hour sleep (even if you didn’t get it).

b. Relax and breathe deeply. Really enjoy your “me” time.

4. To really feel better, Lydia’s secret is to mix one Seaweed and Magnesium supplement into chilled water or fruit juice. The Seaweed and Magnesium will give you energy and enhance clarity. This is a must!

5. After the bath make sure to really take care of your skin on face and body. Use products that will instantly hydrate your skin or provide a lifting effect, especially around the eye area. Lydia loves products that provide an instant lift like Repechage’s Vita Cura Opti-Lift Serum. This can be applied around the eye area 2 times per day and can even be patted on over make-up.

6. The Vita Cura Triple Firming Cream is great to use all over your face for moisture, tightening and an instant lifting effect. It provides a glow that will carry you through the day.

7. If your holiday looks include short skirts or backless dresses Lydia suggests that you amply hydrate your whole body. For great moisture that will treat your skin, Lydia uses Seaweed Crème Active Body Cream in the morning, every morning.

8. When you are on the go, don’t forget to freshen up between parties. Carry Repêchage Algo Mist in your bag to mist on your face for an instant dewy appearance between parties.

Lydia assures that if you do the above 8 steps, you will be successful in having it all!

For more information about the author of this article, simple click below:

Article Source: http://www.spaweekblog.com/2009/12/22/8-expert-tips-stay-fresh-through-the-holidays/

Salon Management with Lydia Sarfati founder of Repechage.com

10 Steps to School Success

Does your school have what it takes to survive?

In these economic times, we are so used to hearing bad news- the job market is down, the employment rate is down, the average annual household income is down. Naturally, I was very pleased when, amidst all of this devastating news for our country, I recently read an article in the New York Times¹ with a very positive message- beauty school enrollment is soaring upwards! As written in this piece, the number of people seeking careers in beauty is on the rise, with enrollment in schools such as Empire and Paul Mitchell increasing over 10 and even 15% in the past year alone. While this is fantastic news for our industry, this inevitably increases competition. Does your school have what it takes to survive?

In response to this, I want to share with you my Ten Easy Steps to a Successful School and How to Increase Your Graduates’ Earnings:

Teachers have the power to inspire students to have passion for their future profession. Hire teachers who will prepare students for a career, not just an exam.

How do you know which educators to hire? Test them!



You’ve found the good ones, now you must make sure you keep them! Incentives and benefits like health insurance, 401k and paid vacations make for a happy employee.


Create a mentoring program to pair your students with local talent, a veteran in Esthetics who can guide them firsthand.

Invite high profile industry professionals to speak with your students. These are the people who inspire!

Cosmetologists can perform Skin treatments, yet they do not have an opportunity to practice. Get your students on the floor practicing their trade! Use the Facial Bar to get your students practicing skincare.

The ability to perform multiple services at one time can increase bookings and profits. For example, a manicure, pedicure and facial can be done at once. Teach your students to be proficient in each area, as opposed to one concentration.

Are your students ready for their interview? A first impression is the most important.
- Look the part- styled hair, natural makeup, manicured nails for a stylish, polished appearance. Teach your students to dress for success!
- Professional Resume- there’s no room for typos!
- Superior presentation skills- They only get one chance to represent themselves (and you!). Make sure your students carry themselves in a professional manner, speak clearly and exude confidence and positivity.

Engage the consumer and they will purchase. You can’t sell if they don’t know what you offer or what they should buy. Offer a skin analysis and consultation, followed with product recommendation for their skin type.

You attract what you think. Wake up every morning with a smile and a purpose. You are in control of your own happiness and accomplishment, so choose success! YES YOU CAN! Be successful in this economy.

Lydia's Top 5 Holiday Gift Picks

I can't believe it's November already. How the year has flown! It seems as though we were just bringing in 2009 and suddenly retail stores are playing holiday tunes and TV commercials feature Santa Claus. 'Tis the season to get shopping!

People often tell me that they have more and more difficulty each year on determining what to buy for those on their list. Luckily, this year's round of gift guides has begun circulating to help with just that. I was recently asked by ForbesWoman Magazine for my top picks in holiday gifts for this year and I wanted to share the article with you to give you a little jumpstart on your holiday shopping.

Good luck and good cheer this holiday season!

ForbesWoman Gift Guide
Gifted Giving
Leah Bourne, 11.10.09
These top style setters have sure-to-please presents for everyone on your list.

Ever wished for a savvy friend to shop for you? Now you have five. Genius gift ideas from Bobbi Brown, CEO of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics; Jenna Lyons, creative director of J. Crew; Kelly Wearstler from Bravo TV's Top Design; Gilt Groupe's Alexandra Wilkis Wilson and Alexis Maybank; and Lydia Sarfati, the founder of Repêchage skin care.
Bobbi BrownBobbi Brown
CEO, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics


Lydia Sarfati
CEO of Repêchage

Lydia Sarfati, the founder and CEO of the skincare line Repêchage, is an entrepreneur known for making facial treatments quick and accessible. Sarfati pioneered the day spa--she opened the first in New York City in 1977--and was the first to use seaweed in skin products. When it comes to giving gifts to her husband, she believes that time is the most precious commodity. On holidays and other special occasions, "I take the time to make a beautifully prepared candlelight dinner with wonderful appetizers and the whole works. You don't have to spend a lot to do something special for someone."

This year, Lydia has her eye on a bottle of Patz & Hall 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Check out her other picks here

Patz & Hall 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

When Sarfati needs to buy someone a gift and she is short on time she sends Patz & Hall wine. "In my opinion it's better than Montrachet," says Sarfati. The best part is that you can easily order it online.

Patz & Hall 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, $42, patzhall.com



Tiffany & Co. Card Case

"Anything in a blue Tiffany's box is great to give to business associates," says Sarfati.

Tiffany & Co. patent leather business card case, $65, tiffany.com

Vintage Rolex Watch

Sarfati says, "The Rolex watch that my husband gave me when I launched my company was the best gift I have ever gotten."

Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 18k Yellow Gold Diamond Women's Automatic Watch, $6,500, portero.com

Montblanc Fountain Pen

For the men in her life Sarfati likes to give special pens from Montblanc or Cartier.

Montblanc StarWalker Black Mystery fountain pen, $570, montblanc.com

Courvoisier XO

"When I give my father a wonderful bottle of Courvoisier he's in heaven" says Sarfati.

Courvoisier XO, $129.99, courvoisier.com

Taking the Fear out of Retailing

The importance of healthy retail sales is obvious to salon and spa owners who are constantly looking to up revenues and grow business. Unfortunately, many have a difficult time getting their staff to support a retail push. I believe this is because many beauty professionals mistakenly construe retailing professional products as “sales”, which has a negative connotation. “Sales” makes many estheticians uncomfortable because they don’t want to seem pushy or aggressive. Your staff is most likely simply afraid to sell.

To take the fear out of retailing, estheticians must accept that it is our professional duty to recommend products to our client. Clients seek you out to improve their skin. Why would you be afraid to provide for what they are asking you?

When you take a professional approach from the beginning you will feel more secure in recommending products than if you wait until the client has money in hand at the cash register. The first step is to begin with a consultation for every client. Use a Skin Analysis Chart. Record a client’s current skin care regime, their habits, past treatments, their sun habits, and most importantly their expectations. The more you know about a client, the better you are able to treat those clients and consequently achieve better results. You should keep these charts on file so that you can review and update your client’s progress every time they return.

Next, is the Diagnosis step. Analyze your client’s skin under a magnifying glass to help you see the formation of lines and blackheads. I recommend using a woods lamp in your salon also. It will enable you to analyze the skin more comprehensively. You are able to clearly see solar and chemical damage as well as hyper or hypopigmentation. It also encourages your client to treat their skin more seriously when they are able to see the damage.

One mistake estheticians make when analyzing the skin is diagnosing what we know is the problem area from years of study and experience. I always give my client a mirror and ask them to point out what it is they are concerned about. You may see congestion and a need for extraction while the client is worried about the formation of lines. Let him or her point out what they perceive as problem areas and then you point out what your trained eye also sees as problem areas. The only way to send a client home satisfied is to correct the problem that brought them to you in the first place.



On a side note, the diagnosis process is a fabulous procedure that can be pulled out of the facial room to a more visible area in the salon. When you offer free skin analysis to hair clients or to potential consumers in a high traffic area, you get to establish yourself as a trained expert and create awareness for what you can do for your clients.

Finally, after the treatment comes the recommendation period. Again, pull out the mirror and show your clients the visible improvements in the problem areas that were identified during the diagnosis step. Then recommend the products that will further aid your client’s improvement. Put the product in their hand. Use a tester to show the client how to use the product and tell them how often. When you prescribe with confidence your client will trust your expertise.

Always make a note of what you recommended and what they purchased on the skin analysis chart. On their next visit you can ask how the product worked for them and tweak their regime if need be. You can also remind your client, for example, that the reason they need another extraction so soon is because they opted not to use the exfoliant you prescribed.

As a business owner, I also recommend you take a look at the retailing atmosphere. Visit other shops and salons for ideas on how to create a boutique atmosphere that is inviting. Look for displays that entice clients to pick up products and tester units that say, “Touch me!” Create shelf-talkers with editorial recommendations from magazines or quotes from celebrities. Any way you make the products more able to sell themselves, the less fear your staff will have in closing the sale. I also recommend that someone is always available in the retail area to help clients choose a product. Educate every one on the staff, including the receptionist.




Do not be afraid to invest in retail. The rewards are not only for your bottom line, but for the quality care of your clients.

Become a Small Business Owner

Small businesses are the backbone of the American economy. They employ the bulk of America’s workforce. The success of small businesses is essential to the growth of the economy, a fact the government recognizes. Every year, the government gives resources and money to tens of thousands of men and women to open shop. Do you have what it takes to be one of these new business owners?

Estheticians and stylists choose to go into business for themselves for a variety of reasons. If you are considering starting your own business, carefully explore what is motivating you. As a business owner, you will be able to gain financial independence. You will reap the rewards of all the work you invest in your company. It is liberating to be your own boss. It is a challenging but rewarding position where you will learn and grow as a person, a beauty therapist, and as a businessperson. You will have total creative freedom to make your vision a reality. You will be able to fully use all your skills, training, and knowledge. However, I do not suggest opening a business if these rewards will not meet your expectations.

What does it take to be a successful business owner? You must be a self-starter. When you’re the boss you have no one making you go to work or try a new marketing campaign. You have to be able to make decisions and stick to your guns. Indecision will keep you on the sidelines missing out on winning business opportunities.

You must have passion that will drive you. It is your passion that keeps you going when you are too tired to go any farther. It is what will get you in the shop at 6am to mop the floors and keep you awake when you are washing towels at midnight. Your passion for the superlative services you deliver must sustain you physically and emotionally and will maintain your motivation over time so your business will thrive and not peter out.

You must be detail oriented whether it is meticulous accounting or meticulous linens. You will exhaust every lead no matter how insignificant. You will cross every t and dot every i. You will read every document you sign. In fact, I suggest you sign every check yourself. Do not give your power over to your accountant. Know where every penny is going.

Finally, you must have your family’s support. Be realistic about how your business will affect your family and the compromises that will have to be made. When I first started my business, I doubt I would have been successful without the unwavering support from my husband David, and my daughters Ires and Shiri. In fact, it is their support, which often inspires me even today.

To succeed you need sound management skills, practical industry experience, technical support, as well as planning ability. If you feel you are lacking in these areas, it does not mean you can’t succeed. It only means you must seek out a partner and/or employees to compensate. Surround yourself with an experienced team.

If you believe you meet these criteria, it is time to begin the most critical step in the formula for success. Research will help you determine if you are setting up your business to succeed or fail. Your business must fill a need that is not being met by the competition. You must explore the advantage your business has over its direct and indirect competition. Delivering a better quality spa experience will set you apart. You must be able to create a demand for your business.

Conducting a market research survey to your target customers is ideal. What are the age, sex, race, education level, and profession of the potential clients in the area you are proposing to open shop? Go one step further. Explore what services they currently have done. What services they are interested in trying? Why do they attend their current salon? What do they like? What do they wish was different? Why would they choose to go to a new salon? Interview as many people as possible about their current practices and attitudes about spa services. If you know what your client wants, then you will be able to fill those needs.

Surveys can be sent out by direct mail or email to be filled out in return for membership in a Salon Rewards Club. Offer a discount on their first service, a program that offers a free Day of Beauty after they refer 5 customers. Invite the VIPs to Open Houses and in-salon events. Invite them to come in for a free skin consultation and make-up application. You will be able to e-mail VIPs about new promotions and sales. You possess a myriad of incentives you can offer to get the public to participate in your service.

If Direct Mail is not your thing, conduct surveys in person at the local mall or somewhere you can reach a lot of walk-through traffic. Hand out free cookies and a coupon to those who out the survey. Approach a local boutique, gym, or business where your clients shop. Offer a gift certificate for a free service if they have their customers fill out a set number of surveys. Remember, the survey’s purpose is to find out what your target client wants. If your target client is a 20-something professional who lives in an urban setting, it doesn’t matter how many suburban housewives at the mall fill out the survey.

Contact the Small Business Administration. There is a local office in almost every major city. The SBA is funded by the government to assist aspiring business owners. They will guide you in writing a business plan as well as point you in the right direction in obtaining loans and grants. They will even guaranty your loan with one of their lending partners if you meet certain criteria.

Being your own boss is an empowering and liberating experience. Starting my own business over 30 years ago is one of the best things I ever did. If you are contemplating opening a salon, have faith in your ability. Many told me I was insane for opening a luxury business during the recession in the late 1970’s. Had I listened to what cynics said, I would never be where I am today. If you want to succeed and are willing to work hard, then I know you will. For more advice on opening your own business, read my book Success At Your Fingertips. I wish you great success!

Innovative Seasonal Promotions For Every Season

“For Every Season There’s a Time”

Now is the time for creating innovative seasonal promotions. Now is the time for salons and spas to reach out and attract new business.

When creating seasonal marketing campaigns, it is important to consider your location. For example, the changing of the leaves in New England brings an influx of tourists and potential clients to resorts and Bed and Breakfasts. Ski Season is just around the corner for many mountain resorts. Northerners and America’s retired flock to Florida to hibernate during cold weather. Network with hotel owners and concierges to receive referrals. Think about what is going on in your town this season and tailor promotional events to them. Even the smallest towns in America host festivals, tournaments, conventions, and the like.

Incorporating geographic specific flavor in your business makes your salon inviting and original. In the South, why not serve iced tea and mint juleps? Let Southern Hospitality infuse the environment. If you live near Indian Reservations, incorporate the magical lore of Native Americans. Create events and services that play up your town’s history and culture: Carolina Cooling Sea Breeze Facial, Boston Tea Facial, Hollywood Star Treatment, New York Minute Manicures. Be creative!
Creating promotional events that tie in with holidays can be very lucrative this time of year. Have an American Beauty Election Day with lots of red rose petals and specials for clients who show their Voter Registration Card. Upcoming holidays such as Thanksgiving and Christmas are prime for fun and quirky promotional events that attract clients and boost morale, which is always attractive. Festivity makes people feel good and connected to others, which is how we want our clients to feel when they are in our salon.

The multitude of gift giving holidays creates a huge opportunity for selling gift certificates. Market your self to business owners, husbands, sons, and fathers. One salon owner in New York ran a brief radio ad during the Howard Stern Show and sold so many gift certificates he had to hire several more employees just to answer the phones and install a second phone line. Advertise where the boys are; the Sports page, the Golf Course Club House, and Men Only organizations contain many clueless gents looking for a simple gift that will delight the women in their lives and earn them beau coup brownie points.

The holiday season is also the time for major retailing. Not only are your clients wanting to look good for a myriad of parties and get togethers, they are on the prowl for creative gift ideas for friends, family, and coworkers. Don’t only recommend their at-home regime; suggest a gift certificate for a deep pore cleansing treatment for their teenage goddaughter or a massage for their racquetball partner.
The end of the year is also a popular time for highlights, makeovers and slimming body treatments. Create promotions that include these services.
Spotlight treatments and services that are popular in the winter because they are self heating or use thermal mittens, or blankets. Offer hot cider, cocoa, gourmet coffees, and eggnog that create a cozy ambiance and leave your clients feeling warm and fuzzy.

Also, think of how the changing weather affects the skin differently. Your inventory should contain more intensive moisturizers and gentle cleansers. Stock popular seasonal products such as lip balm and hand cream. And don’t forget Sunscreen at ski resorts!



Creating exciting and original promotions is not enough for a successful season if no one knows about them. Use direct mail to notify VIP clients of upcoming promotions via a holiday card. Advertise with local media, cross promote with area businesses, send e-mail announcements and update your website.

As a business owner, it is important to plan out and prepare for seasonal promotions ahead of time. Your inventory should be stocked, your staff trained, decorations bought, and marketing tools printed. Professionally and personally, this is a stressful and busy time of year. So just like Santa, make your list and check it twice. You won’t want to be left out in the cold this lucrative holiday season.
If you have any questions or suggestions regarding seasonal marketing or any other topic of concern, please e-mail me at lydia@repechage.com. I wish you much health and joy this upcoming holiday season. ‘Tis the season to ring in the holidays!

The Science of Acne

Close to 85% of people will experience some form of acne in their lifetime. According to the Academy of Dermatology, acne is the most common skin disorder in the United States affecting 40-50 million Americans at one time.4 When people think of acne, they think of teenagers, but acne can affect many people through adulthood as well. Some estimate as many as half of all adult women experience some form of acne due to an increase in androgen and a decrease of estrogen in peri-menopause.

Looking good and feeling good, do go hand in hand. This is why it can be so difficult for clients who suffer from acne skin. Acne can have a devastating effect on the self- esteem and confidence. Many acne sufferers withdraw socially, and even experience depression.

The good news is that most acne can be treated with outstanding results. And as you help your clients improve their skin, you’ll also improve their confidence and self-esteem. Treating acne can be one of the most rewarding experiences for you as an esthetician

What is Acne?
Acne is an inflammatory lesion of the sebaceous glands. The first signs are usually during puberty, where there’s an increase in the hormone Androgen, which is especially active in stimulating the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. This stimulates extra production of sebum, combined with dead skin cells and other debris, become trapped and creates a plug that blocks the hair follicle.

Acne is defined as a condition resulting from the increased production of the hormone Androgen, which is especially active in stimulating the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. As the ducts of these glands become plugged with the waxy oil, comedones (black heads) and whiteheads (milia) form. They are frequently infected with bacteria, causing welts, deeper lumps and pimples (cysts or nodules).

Sebaceous glands are the glands situated at the root of the hair follicle in the dermis. They can be found all over the body except for the palms and soles. These glands secrete sebum or oil. When the oil is mixed with perspiration, the skin’s surface becomes slightly acidic. This keeps some bacteria and fungi from embedding in the skin and at the same time helping to retain water in the tissue by slowing down evaporation from the skin. When the sebaceous glands are stimulated, a process known as retention hyperkeratosis occurs. This may be triggered by the onset of puberty, hormonal fluctuation, pharmaceutical agents, and stress, as well as heat and humidity.
In acne, the dead cells stick together, along with excess sebum and bacteria to form an impaction plug.

This first stage-impacted follicle is often referred to as a micro comedone. As the bacteria digest sebum, they produce fatty acid waste products that irritate the lining of the follicle causing a proliferation of cells to accumulate in the impacted follicle. At this point, the disease may result in non-inflammatory lesions, and simply produce closed comedones. When they eventually turn into open comedones and expel their contents, inflamed lesions may also result, whereby the follicle wall ruptures forming a papule. White blood cells invade the area and inflammation ensues. If the break is close to the surface of the skin a pustule results. If it is deeper, a nodule forms. In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst forms.

Latest research has found that there are three factors that cause acne: Sebum, Bacteria, and Enclosure. And when you encounter these factors together, it creates an environment for inflamed, irritated and congested skin.

THE SEQUENCE OF EVENT OF THE ACNE LESION

1. Keratinized plug blocks sebum from wicking out along the hair shaft
2. Stagnant sebum is broken down by bacterial enzymes into short chained fatty acid
3. Irritation of a papule is formed
4. Increased blood flow activates the immune system

5. White blood cells are rushed into to deal with the foreign matter

6. Pustules are formed

TYPES OF ACNE LESIONS

Levels of Acne – Level 1
Microcomedo: A comedo formed below the epidermis and can’t be seen by the naked eye. Feels like small, hard bumps. As it enlarges, it looks like tiny white bumps just below the surface of the skin.
Closed Comedo (Whitehead): firm white papule
Open Comedo (Comedones): A hard plug composed of sebum and dead skin cells. This is the mildest form of acne.

Levels 2-3
Papule: Inflamed lesions - Small, solid slightly raised areas of the skin less than half an inch in diameter. They may have varied appearance: rounded, smooth or rough, skin-colored or red, pink or brown.
Milia: Also known as epidermal cysts, these are small, firm white papules usually found in clusters on upper cheeks and around the eyes.
Pustule: A small, pus-containing skin blister often found at the opening of hair follicles. More visible inflammation than a papule

Levels 4-5
Nodule: large painful solid lesion extending deep into the skin
Cysts: In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst forms. Cysts are inflamed pus filled lesions.

What can be done?

Today, acne can be treated without the harshness and discomfort of traditional treatments that leave the skin red and irritated. First to treat any form of acne, you have to deal with the three factors (Sebum, Bacteria, and Enclosure). This is done with a three- tier approach of professional esthetic treatments, home care program, and diet with nutritional supplements.

Regardless of which form of acne is prevalent on the client, it is known that sebum production or oil is the catalyst for the series of events that results in acne or skin blemishes. As skin care professionals, we know that excess sebum is often associated with enlarged pores, a tendency toward follicle congestion and an oily “T-zone”. We can treat acne prone skin by controlling the excess sebum production, and maintaining proper moisture level.

Common Acne Types

Acne Conglobata: Severe hereditary acne that generally causes scarring on the face and back. It appears as irregularly joined nodules; at earlier stages hard, then with a soft fluid feel.
Acne Detergents: Acne caused by overuse of abrasive cleansers.

Acne Excoriee: A psychosomatic disease involving neurotic picking of the face.

**Photo provided by Karen Burke., MD., PHD.

Acne Mallorca: Caused by excessive sun exposure. It’s often seen in people who work outdoors.

Acne Mechanica: Acne caused by mechanical irritation (such as under the chinstraps in football players).

Acne Medicamentosa: Acne caused by medications.

Chloracne Acne: Caused by constant exposure to certain industrial chemicals, such as aromatic halogenated compounds, and the hydrocarbons found in motor oil.

Steroid Acne: An inflammation of hair follicles caused by internal steroids or from topical corticosteroids on the face.

Acne Cosmetica: A condition caused by comedogenic ingredients found in hair styling products, conditioners, certain sunscreens and makeup. Acne Cosmetica lesions are of the same shape and size, and can be avoided by switching to non-comedogenic products.

Cystic Acne: A severe type of acne condition when the sebum together with dead cells and bacterial products ruptures through the follicle wall, causing an inflammatory reaction that may end in scarring. It appears as a large rubbery nodule, often skin colored and surrounded by red inflamed tissue, 5-20mm in size.

Acne Vulgaris: Most common form of acne, most common in teenagers. It is a direct result of an increase in the male hormone Androgen. Normally develops at puberty and can be triggered at any age. Characterized by a variety of lesions, being visible at any time.


**Photo provided by Karen Burke., MD., PHD.

Removal of Acne Lesions

Desincrustation: Desincrustation is the process of softening the keratinaceous horny plug and allows extractions to proceed easily with minimal trauma to the surrounding tissue.

Lancets: Estheticians can remove comedones (closed and open) and milia with the use of lancets (check with your local state board if it is permissible). Papules and pustules, however, cysts and nodules must be treated by dermatologists. As an esthetician you can still administer acne treatments that will help cystic skin but you won’t be able to remove those lesions.

Comedone extractions:
Manual extractions using vinyl gloves and wrapped index fingers is very effective in removing comedones. If it doesn’t remove immediately, with slight pressure from side to side, use alternating angles to gently lift the Comedone.

Another gentle and effective way to remove a Comedone is with sterile cotton swabs.
If the contents are not expelling, simply go to another section and leave it for the next treatment. Remember the Comedones did not occur in one day and many times it will take more than one treatment to clear them all up.

Esthetics Tools in Treating Acne

High Frequency
High Frequency is an excellent and versatile tool for the esthetician. This electrical unit contains an electrode that uses UVC germicidal rays.
High Frequency:
· Has anti bacterial properties
· Decreases inflammation
· Allows for faster healing time for lesions
· Prevents Secondary infections
Contraindications when working with high frequency machine, they are:
· Do not use on pregnant clients
· Do not use on people with high blood pressure or heart condition
· Epileptics
· Asthmatics
· Clients that have braces, metal implants or heavy dental work

Educating your Client
Education and knowledge is the key in treating acne. Educate your client on the importance of in salon treatments and following a home care program especially designed for them.

As you know picking and squeezing pustules will only make their acne worse. Picking can spread acne-causing bacteria and squeezing can spread infected material deeper into the skin causing more inflammation and even scarring.

Another misunderstanding is the acne can simply be washed away. But over-washing will further irritate the skin. Educate your clients on the myths of acne, such as acne is caused by chocolate. There is no evidence to support that claim. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle, home care program, nutritional supplements and professional acne treatments will lead to a healthier more radiant skin at any age.

4 American Academy of Dermatology, aad.org

Buy Made in USA

"CITGO is NOW in the process of Changing Its Name to "PETRO EXPRESS" due to the loss of gasoline sales in the USA ...due to the recent publicity of ownership by Chavez of Venezuela. Every dollar you spend with ''CITGO" or "PETRO EXPRESS" gasoline will be used against you, your basic human rights, and your freedoms."

Chavez is a dangerous man involved with the most evil nations. All Americans should make an educated choice. It is our responsibility for future generations to support American labor and manufactures.

Please know, for American manufactures there is no fair trade agreement. For example, our products that are made in Secaucus, NJ, each formula has to be registered abroad and to export US products into China the cost per formulation $4500.00 to the Chinese Ministry. Let's say we have 160 products, you do the math. Yet, the Chinese send to the U.S. shores boat loads of products without any registration fees or verification of their formulation (Do u remember the children's toys painted with lead paint, tainted dog food, contact lens solution, and even medication!!!

OK, so who is accountable for this?? All of us! No, don't point your fingers, consumers, on companies for wanting cheap staff, manufacturers for sending jobs abroad to gain more profits for their share holders -- It's Pure greed! I don't want to speak when I call to make my reservations in USA with someone in Mumbai, but I do because that company rather pay $6k a year to an employee then $30K ++ benefits. Consumers drive the market! Stop and think and stop blaming! Do something about it . Until there is a fair trade agreement with Asia and Europe (yes, the same thing is in the E.U.) BUY Made in the USA!

Tips on Safer Waxing

Everyone has thought about proper hair removal methods but wherever you go, for the most part no one really implements them. “Double Dipping” Should I wear gloves etc
Dr. David R. Caprette PhD, department of biochemistry and cell biology at Rice University in Houston has expressed concern about how easily one can transfer a viable organism to a nice warm blooded environment. This can be a breeding ground for infection.”
So here are some tips, for better waxing habits and NO MORE DOUBLE DIPPING!

-Always wear gloves

-Use a new applicator each time wax is applied to the skin

-Cleanse your implements i.e. tweezer, with anti bacterial soap, first, then place in a UV sterilizer or autoclave for 20 minutes

-Place all disposables in a plastic bag and keep it close to the waxing station so that no other surface is contaminated. Then seal and discard in a closed trash bin after each client

-Continue to educate yourself in proper and efficient wax application, this will help you lower your application costs of waxing per client

Finally you must know the law not just for your individual state but Federal Law. This states that “everyone should be considered as contaminated and that service providers who are occupationally exposed or have the potential to be are required to use preventive measure to prevent cross contamination.” That means federal standards already state that estheticians must wear gloves and perform one-time-use per applicator of hair removal products. See http://www.osha.gov/ for more details.

Success is a Pie...of Pizza!

On a recent ski trip to Colorado, my hosts decided to have a pizza-making contest. We were divided into teams of two and sent off to create our own little culinary works of art. My partner was in charge of making the dough and I whipped up several toppings to put on our pizza. When all was done, everyone set up their pizzas and each was assigned a number. I noticed how quickly everyone vanished from the counter to engage in other activities and talk to friends. But I stood behind my pizza and every time one of the judges tasted a slice, I talked about it with great excitement. “Can’t you taste the delicious sweetness of the caramelized onions? The cheese just melts in your mouth! The peppers add a wonderful zestiness!”

In the end, my pizza received the most votes and my husband joked that I had won because I “PR’ed my pizza.”

While it was funny, it was true. As a professional, it is important that you are able to talk about your services and products effectively and enthusiastically. If a client isn’t aware of what you have to offer, how can they buy it? And unfortunately, a product sitting on a shelf doesn’t always speak for itself- it is your job to speak for it. “This is the most fantastic moisturizer for dry, dehydrated skin!" "The mint in this body scrub is more invigorating than coffee to jump start your morning!”

Your excitement is infectious and I know I’d personally rather try something I’m hearing rave reviews about over something I’m hearing nothing about. The more information you give, the more information a client or potential client will hear. And if you are getting a consistent no, you aren’t giving them the information they need. You are not telling them what they want to hear.

Like I always say, Show and Tell and You Will Sell!!

The Growth of Beauty Schools: Our Future Professionals!

According to The NY Times ("As Beauty Schools Grow" June 7, 2009), cosmetology schools are on the rise and enrollment is up. The face of cosmetology schools has greatly changed in the last 20 years. And that's good news for our industry. While they still offer the basics -- hair skin and nails -- they are now offering expanded curriculum's to include massage, wellness and skin care. According to the Times, "Ten years ago if you said the word 'esthetician' people would say 'what is that?'...the industry is much more sophisticated than it once was."

I know this first hand. When I was starting off in the industry people would think I was saying that I was an "electrician." Well, we've certainly come a long way, baby!

Times are tough but "cosmetology is holding steady in the recession."

And the number of people seeking beauty schools is up. Whether as a second career or older students that are in college, people are seeking careers in our industry.

The notion of celebrity make-up artists, stylists and skin care professionals have also contributed to this new-found attraction. Graduates from schools can work behind the scenes in theater, film and television, add to the cache of being a beauty professional.

I am excited that our industry can still provide jobs during tough economic times. I know, I started my career in a recession. And there is opportunity, you just have to work hard at it.

How to Hire & Manage an Esthetician

What is an Esthetician? A licensed esthetician is a skin care professional who has graduated from a state licensed training program, and has passed both written and practical exams of the State Board.

Most states require usually between 300 and 1,200 hours

Estheticians also take many post- graduate continuing education classes to stay up to date with the latest developments of skin care treatments.

Who to hire?

A licensed esthetician with at least 3 years experience “behind-the-chair”

Look for a CIDESCO certificate
Even states with higher licensing requirements don’t always prepare an esthetician well.

Advanced training is a good way to tell if your esthetician is dedicated.

Good presentation / communication skills

Thorough knowledge of skin histology and anatomy

A business sensibility and retail sales acumen

A passion for skincare

Desire to serve clients and administer to their needs

Esthetician must project:

A Professional Image:
- Laundered & Pressed labcoat -Clean & Short nails
-Well-groomed hair / makeup
-Minimal fragrance

Well organized

Client Focused

Neat & Tidy

Always provides proper consultation, diagnosis & recommendation

How to recruit an esthetician?

Local newspaper ads

The Internet: craigslist

Your Salon website

Personal referrals

Word-of-mouth

Cosmetology Schools

http://www.aestheticjobs.com/

The Interview Process: The Resume

Look for licensure

Look for salon experience, and number of years as a practitioner

Look for any teaching experience, or any sales and retail experience

Look for any indication of “presentation ability”, be it teaching, or sales, or consulting

*It is crucial that they know how to communicate,
suggest, offer, and recommend products as a
follow up to the treatments they deliver, and close
the sale by scheduling the next appointment

The Interview Process: Phone Interview

Listen to the voice when scheduling the interview with the potential hire. You will learn a lot!

Tell them they will be expected to:

Fill out a complete application

Bring a separate hard copy of their resume

Be prepared to take an assessment (test) on basic esthetic knowledge and principles

Be prepared to give a 10-15 minute demonstration of an esthetic technique, such as
massage (facial), exhibiting proper draping techniques, and handling of any product,
using appropriate hand movements and gestures.

Tell them they will also be evaluated on:
Their speech, delivery, and overall presentation

The Interview Process:

Screen & Qualify your candidates.
It will save you time and money, in the long run, and ensure that you hired the best esthetician possible to serve your needs.

Give them adequate time to absorb the treatment protocols, and receive adequate training to perform them on their own.

Must know how to utilize the skin analysis chart to evaluate a client’s skin type, and suggest the proper at-home care products.

Compensation & Profitability:

Salary plus small commission works well.

provide advanced education as part of their compensation package.

Benefits, 401K – Career!!

Guidelines: Lydia Sarfati’s Success at Your Fingertips

How to Manage an Esthetics Team?

Set Goals

Implementation

Accountability

Recognition

Step 1: Know your vision:

Create a mission statement:

why is this salon in business?

What are your goals?

How are you going to execute your goals?

Step2: Communicate:

Communicate Your Vision, Direction & Why

Communicate to staff how they are a vital part of helping accomplish goals.

Actively seek input from staff at all levels.

Let them know their input is important, but also be honest and truthful with them and explain that not all of their ideas will be implemented.

Step3: Implement:

Weekly Staff meetings

Take Notes – Create a Plan of Action

Create deadline for completion

Will demonstrate depth of staff input, empower staff to take on responsibility, foster staff investment in the process, hold people accountable, and profoundly move the company forward.

Step4: Accountability:

Identify specific performance goals you expect

Performance meetings so that staff understands what is expected of them.

Step5: Recognize:

Publicly recognize accomplishments and give credit to your staff for the job they have done and the effective ideas they have come up that have led to the realization of these goals.